To’ing and Fro’ing

What do you know… I’m behind on my writing again.  Shocking!  I’m sitting in the dining car on the Ocean route, somewhere in Quebec.  We’ll be getting into Montreal this morning, then to Toronto, then back on the Canadian for a few nights on our way to Winnipeg.  But that’s the future… right now I’m dwelling in the past.

We’ve had such a good week.  After PEI we were off to the Annapolis Valley to visit/stay with a friend of Bo’s.  The drive was lovely, and we didn’t get lost (Bo had figured out the route beforehand and didn’t need my stellar map reading skills).

We stopped at the Grand Pré National Historical Site – our education on the Maritimes continues – and then to the water.  I believe we were at the Minas Basin, part of the Bay of Fundy.  The tide was out really far, and I had a good wander among a lot of sparkly stones… what a gorgeous place.  I managed to restrain my need to pick up a literal ton of stones, and limited myself to two tiny ones.

Then it was off to Margaret and Darcy’s house.  They live in a cozy and wonderful octagonal log home, with a view that could take your breath away.  We had a great visit with the two of them and the enchanting Basil – I think Bo and I both contemplated catnapping her.  Basil was probably very relieved when we packed up and left – she got a LOT of attention.

Margaret spent the next day and a half of our visit driving us to Mahone Bay, Lunenburg (where we saw the Bluenose II), Chester, Annapolis Royal and a variety of fishing villages (Blue Rocks, Harbourville and many others).  I loved the area, and the fishing villages were everything a photo junkie could want.

Margaret and Darcy spoiled us with a comfy place to sleep, amazing meals and really good conversations.  They had multiple bird feeders on the deck, and I got to see many woodpeckers, mourning doves and an Atlantic region blue jay.  I continue to know very little about birds, but I do find them fascinating to watch.

Thank you both so much for your hospitality – I really enjoyed the visit and hope to see you all again.

After the visit we made the trek back to Halifax – we had some issues at the toll for the bridge, but made it through unscathed (we were yelled at a little, but sticks and stones…!) We found the hotel, in an area of town we’ve never been to, and proceeded to tear apart our disastrous luggage (which had morphed from two suitcases and two train bags into two suitcases, train bags and a variety of knitting bags, laundry bags, souvenir map bags, etc.)  Putting it all back together took some time, especially as we weren’t sure if we would be able to check our suitcases on the first leg of the journey.

There wasn’t much in the way of restaurants around the hotel, so we went to Randy’s Pizza Seafood Donair cafe for takeaway.  We decided that pizza would probably be the safest bet, and it was surprisingly delicious (surprisingly because it was a rather… unprepossessing cafe… the name might have clued you in).

The next day it was back to the station.  Our tickets said departure was at 11, but it turns out that departure was at 12.  Luckily we had the very comfortable business lounge to sit in for two hours.  And we were so lucky… not only were we able to check our bags, but he checked them through to Toronto.  Seeing as our train was an hour late getting into Montreal – we had to run to catch the connecting train as they were already lifting up the mat to cover the gap between train and station – we’re not completely sure our luggage will end up in Toronto, but happily we have a long layover so hopefully it joins us…

Being back on the train was lovely.  The staff was, as always, wonderful, and we felt very looked after.  I think my favourite part of the trip was when we were in the dining car going through a particularly scenic area.  Bo leapt to her feet and starting dashing to windows, trying to get a good picture of the sunset over the water.  The entire car was giggling with her as she hopped from table to table.  She is very recognized now… heehee!

On to Toronto!

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Nobody called me Carrots

Fans of the Anne of Green Gables series of books will understand that reference… Prince Edward Island was pretty amazing – the colours, the people, the history – truly a fun experience.

Chez Shea, the B&B we stayed in, was lovely. The food was delicious, the owners a lot of fun and very knowledgeable, and there were animals!  I fell in love with Rosy and Posy (Rosie and Posie?), the two black dogs, and Bebe (sp?), a gorgeous orange cat.

We started to plot out what to do with the one day that we had, and decided that rather than stressing about what we were missing, we would instead pick a few places to see, leaving a bit of time for anything else that came up.  We settled on Cavendish, home of L.M. Montgomery and the site of the Anne of Green Gables house, Cavendish beach, Victoria by the Sea and Charlottetown.

We started out towards Cavendish, but quickly stopped at a shop for a look around – outside and in.

After a little shopping we were back on the road to Cavendish.  We accidentally made a wrong turn, and instead of ending up at Green Gables, we ended up on the property where L.M. Montgomery was raised.  There was a small cabin that held a variety of books for sale, as well as various antiques from her life.  We found out that we could walk to Green Gables, passing the remnants of Montgomery’s farmhouse and going through the Haunted Woods.  Before we could head out, an older woman told us that she wanted to tell us the history of the place.  Turns out that she is the wife of Montgomery’s great great grandson (I might have the relationship wrong… I was getting confused after a lot of genealogy talk), and she told us about the author and the property.  She was quite dear and so obviously devoted to the subject matter.  She and her husband did a lot of restoration on the place as a tribute to Montgomery.

After the talk, off we went, battling hordes of mosquitoes.  Hordes.  I am not exaggerating.  I was walking behind Bonnie on the path, and the air was grey with mosquito wings around her.  I really don’t like those little beasties!  Other than the mosquitoes, the walk was lovely.

After the walk back to the car, we headed off to the beach at Cavendish.  Wow.  The red cliffs were outstanding.  Bo kept stressing me out by wandering/sitting WAY to close to the eroding edge for my comfort.  I tried to take pictures of her on the edge, but couldn’t get the depth perception right – they all just looked like she was sitting level with the water.  She was not!  Sorry for the volume of cliff and rock pictures… I honestly didn’t include all the ones I took!

We both dabbled our feet in what we had heard was warm water.  We were led astray… NOT warm!

Then it was off to Victoria by the Sea… seemed appropriate!  It is a dear little town with a lovely boardwalk.

Yes – we did try the potato fudge… It was a little potato-y, but more than anything it was sweet… really really sweet.

Continuing on with our busy day, we then went to Charlottetown – I really liked what we saw of it.  We wandered around looking for the historically significant Confederation buildings. Finally had to get out the phone and check online to see what we were looking for…. Sigh.  It’s shameful… I know!

Then it was back to Kinkora for dinner at the neighbouring O’Shea’s Pub, and home to the B&B to pack up… again.

The next day we had an amazingly delicious breakfast of waffles with a ginger syrup and fresh fruit… yum!  We said our goodbyes – I had an awful lot of animals to hug – then we set off for Confederation Bridge.  It’s really long (shocking observation, I know 😉).  We were heading for the Annapolis Valley to visit/stay with a friend of Bo’s.  That is a story for another day… although I’m behind on recounting my trip, I’m weary and heading  for sleep.  We’re back on the train tomorrow (the one with WiFi), so I’ll be updating more then.  It’s been an excellent trip so far, and it feels like we’ve been gone for a month!

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Playing catch up…

Must start writing… I’m falling behind!  Brace yourselves – it’s going to be another long post!

I believe I left off at the end of the garden tour. It had become a gorgeous sunny day, and so we went in search of the LYS (that means the Local Yarn Store – no, that was not the name of it, just the level of importance that yarn stores have on trips). The actual name is The Loop. It was a very pleasing yarn store/coffee shop, and Bo found some lovely local hand-dyed yarn. Then the search for somewhere to lunch, which was also sightseeing. We found a basement pub (no, not in someone’s basement, just the basement of a building) called Rock Bottom. We had a waiter named Buck who made us laugh, and Bo had lobster (which also made us laugh… a lot). After a very late lunch, we went to pick up our laundry which we had left at the laundromat, and went back to the Inn.

Bo and lobster

Bo and lobster

The lobster doesn't understand that the water is not an escape...

The lobster doesn’t understand that the water is not an escape…

“The Inn?” you say “You never finished telling us about the Inn!” Well, we were booked in at the Halliburton Inn – a heritage building that used to be townhouses. We were in the attic, and it was charming. One of the beds was upstairs, so we each had our own space – luxury – especially after train travel. There was a well-equipped kitchen and seating area. The beds were like a drug… neither of us ever wanted to get up. The staff was really pleasant and helpful. I’d stay there again in a heartbeat!

Various sites we saw:

After we dropped off the laundry, off we went for the next part of our day… We wandered down to the waterfront and saw the Harbour Hopper – an amphibious vehicle. We have wanted to go on one for years – Mazatlan… Victoria… it never happened. Now it has! The Hopper was a military vehicle in it’s former life, and is worth about $1,000,000. We trucked around town, listening to the patter, and got to see a lot of stuff we hadn’t seen… also learned a fair amount. Then came the fun part… into the water!

Going into the water

Going into the water

It was a gorgeous day, perfect for being out on the water. We went past the Navy shipyard:

Boats, er... ships

Boats, er… ships

We also went past a floating one-hole “golf course” – I’m a little baffled by that one:

Someone needs to explain this to me!

Someone needs to explain this to me!

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Ship

Ship

Then it was back to dry land. We were dropped off next to the Maritime Museum, and as it was free on Tuesday nights, and it was Tuesday night, in we went. It was quite interesting. They have a parrot named Merlin (you can follow him on a live feed), and a variety of items they have salvaged from shipwrecks, including from the Titanic. I quite enjoyed that museum, and took so very many pictures of different style anchors as inspiration for jewellery.

After the museum we started getting chilly, so we went back to the Inn. We lazed about for awhile, then out to the restaurant next door for Thai food. SO tasty!

The next day was a wet and windy one. I had grown annoyed with my hair (not an unusual state for me) and decided a lot of the weight around the back of my hair had to go. I had made an appointment the night before (that was what got us motivated to leave the Inn the second time) for an early (to me – 9:45 am) appointment. That went well, and I determined that I’ll need to go to Halifax whenever I need a trim.

After that, the rain was coming down so hard that I went to a coffee shop and started editing pictures. I went through several beverages waiting for the rain to lighten up. Bo was still at the Inn (also editing pictures – someone really needs to take our cameras away!), so once the rain stopped, I wandered off to another shop to visit the daughter of one of the people I work for – I found her and chatted a bit, both of us amazed that we recognized each other.

Then I heard a call… it was a lobster, and it knew my name. Off I went to one of the shops on the boardwalk for my first lobster roll from Dave’s Lobster booth. Wow. It was so very good that I don’t have words.

Bo was done editing by that point, so we met at The Stubborn Goat – a pub that really needs to have souvenirs…not that I know any stubborn goats or anything…heehee!

After food we decided it was time for culture, and we went to Pier 21. I was very uneducated prior to this trip about many aspects of the history of Halifax, part of which was Pier 21. We went through the museum, and I found myself almost in tears over some of the details about the immigration process and the emotions that people coming into a strange land must have had. It was very educational and definitely eye-opening.

Pier 21

Pier 21

Sculpture near Pier 21

Sculpture near Pier 21

After Pier 21 we walked along the boardwalk and decided to stay in that evening – we were both pretty tired and needed to pack.

Alas, the time came for us to leave Halifax. We taxied to the car rental place and rented a white Volkswagen (of some variety) that we named Gertrude (Gertie for short). Then came the fun times… trying to learn how to start the car (you have to press the brake to start it). Then came more fun – trying to get out of the garage while the car rental guy was chasing us trying to help us get out. I’m sure he went back up to the office rolling his eyes and shaking his head. But we did get on the road!

Bridge leaving Halifax, on our way to Dartmouth

Bridge leaving Halifax, on our way to Dartmouth

Unfortunately I was the one navigating, and we didn’t seem to have a map (it was found later in Bo’s purse). Honestly, having the map didn’t really help that much… I am many things, but one of those things is not an effective map reader/navigator. We did eventually get to Pictou, after driving on what Bo believes is the worst stretch of regional highway in Nova Scotia. The road had cavernous valleys with lovely green grass growing in them. Fortunately it wasn’t a busy (or particularly long) stretch of road, so she drove in the middle a lot.

Sheet Harbour

Sheet Harbour

Pretty beach

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Once we got to Pictou and settled in the hotel, we went looking for somewhere to have dinner. You’d think that would be an easy task, but it was not! We did, however, find a place where we could adopt lobster. Unfortunately (?) it was closed. Fortunately we then found a lobster bar and each had a lobster roll. The lobster was great, the bun a little less so.

The next day (it’s Friday now, for those whose minds have wandered in my rather long post) we found ourselves at a little artists collective, where we were able to meet the woman who created a whole lot of hand-dyed yarn from her own sheep. We had a good chat with her, and found lots of little treasures.

At this point it would have been wise to check on the schedule for the ferry to PEI, but no one ever said we were wise. We had just missed the ferry – I think it was shortly after 11, and the next one wasn’t until 2:45. We decided to wait, as the terminal was likely going to get quite full. We tried to hand the woman at the ferry booth some money, but…insert drumroll here…there was no charge!! Maybe there will be to get off the island (once we’re trapped at the mercy of the ferry boat), but it was quite exciting not to pay.

The car, rather like the cheese, stands alone

The car, rather like the cheese, stands alone

I felt extremely Canadian… I was sitting on the purple/pink/grey rocks next to the ocean, looking out over land that was tinged with terracotta coloured soil, reading (for the kajillionth time), Anne of Green Gables. I had forgotten how much I enjoyed the book, and it is definitely getting me into a PEI state of mind.

Pretty rocks

Pretty rocks

The ferry ride (when it finally happened… we were really early) was lovely, and we’re hearing more accents now. PEI is spectacular… the pictures of the red earth surrounded by green growth are not lies. It is absolutely breathtaking.

On the way to the B&B Bo saw a sign for a local mill. We wandered through Belfast and found the Belfast Mini Mills. Apparently they are well known for making the milling equipment, but they also had a shop of yarn and roving…it was lovely. On the way back to the car we were treated to the sight of a pure white peacock with its tail feathers fanned out. Not sure who he was trying to impress, but so glad he was making the effort! There were also pregnant goats to pet, sheep, and some odd little birds – I think they were Guinea Fowl – they were not part of the petting portion of this stop…they were the squealing and running away part!

I was navigating again (when will Bo learn??), but we still managed to find our way to the B&B. It is owned by two sisters of one of Bo’s students. The place is gorgeous, and after dinner at the next door pub, we came back to find fresh lemon loaf with blackberries waiting for us. We are so spoiled!! Tomorrow will be a full day, trying to cram a whole island visit into not enough hours. We’ll do our best, though!

 

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You are now entering…

the picture zone… AKA our visit to the Halifax Public Gardens.

Front gates

Front gates

So many pictures from a truly amazing day.  This post will be about the garden visit, and I will do another post about the rest of our time in Halifax.

Truly I am exhausted, in a happy, seen a lot of beauty, sunburned kind of way.  We had the perfect day for our garden tour – it started off a bit cloudy and cool, and then brightened up considerably as the day went on.

We met Helen and Tracy at Horticultural Hall, and were introduced to many people (I would list names, but alas, my memory does not retain names very proficiently!) who were all so pleasant and welcoming.  Helen and Tracy walked us around the garden – sharing stories, history and knowledge.  I won’t recount everything we heard – I’m still processing it all – but I encourage you to visit the Halifax Public Garden site for more information on this scenic, middle-of-the-city treasure.

I think one of my favorite areas was the Duck House.  It’s a little shed/cabin on the edge of a pond… the perfect place to sit and ponder life while listening to the rain falling, or to sit in the shade and watch the ducks and fish swim by.

Duck House

Duck House

Niew from the Duck House

View from the Duck House

Here are some pictures from our garden visit:

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Coral edged garden

Coral edged garden

Brain coral

Brain coral

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Helen, Bo and Tracy

Helen, Bo and Tracy

As a person who loves trees of the twisty variety, this garden was perfection… so much texture and twist… My camera got quite a workout!

I feel so fortunate to have won this prize and to have been able to tour such a pleasing garden with two such excited and motivated people… The love they have for their work came through and made the visit that much more enjoyable.  Thank you Helen and Tracy.

But wait… there’s more!  Helen is a dyer, spinner and knitter, Bo is a knitter/crocheter/designer and I’m a needle felter.  Helen dropped off some plant dyed (dahlia), handspun yarn for Bonnie, and some indigo dyed roving for me.  Wow – these are truly special mementos from our visit, and I’m so excited about them.  Thanks you so much!!

Plant dyed, handspun yarn and roving

Plant dyed, handspun yarn and roving

 

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Here’s Halifax!

We’ve arrived in Halifax – yay!  It’s a lovely sunny evening and the town looks peaceful and old… so much gorgeous stone… I’m a happy girl!

Lighthouse

Lighthouse

Helen met us at the rail station as promised, and drove us to the Inn.  What a beautiful place – multi-roomed, a kitchen, everything one could need… and there are slanted ceilings and hidey holes.  I love it!  There will be pictures tomorrow (or soon).

In addition to picking us up, Helen brought over a lovely bouquet of flowers that were actually from the Halifax Public Garden – while I don’t know what the flowers are called, I can appreciate their beauty and luscious scent.

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Beautiful bouquet from the Halifax Public Garden

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After cleaning up and getting settled, we went for a walk along the waterfront.  There are still blossoms here – we get to experience them again!

Blossoms and Bo

Blossoms and Bo

We both kept taking pictures long after the light had become scarce – there’s just so much to photograph here – the contrast of old and new, everything and anything to do with water, etc.  After wandering for a few hours we found a pub with live music.  Perfect!  Had a great dinner and wandered back to the Inn.

I’m very much looking forward to the garden tour tomorrow.  Expect more flower/plant photos!

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